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Atacama: Hot Springs, Geysers, and Lakes in the World’s Driest Desert

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The presence of water in the desert attracts life, in this case, grasses and flamingoes.

The presence of water in the desert attracts life, in this case, grasses and flamingos

When you’re traveling to the world’s driest desert, a vast swath that covers the northern part of Chile, as well as parts of neighboring Peru and Bolivia, you might think that you wouldn’t see any water at all. But though the air is very low in humidity, and the stark landscapes are a continuous reminder that you are in the desert, there are actually a surprising number of ways to get on, in or near the water from Chile’s tiny northern town of San Pedro de Atacama.

San Pedro de Atacama is a small outpost town that is the seat of  desert tourism for Chile, and most visitors come to spend about three or four days here, taking in the sights. Many of the sights are focused on the presence of water, which makes for a striking contrast in this mostly barren landscape. Here are several water-related attractions below.

1. Laguna Chaxa

This where the giant Atacama Salt Lake is most easily accessed. Visitors come in the early morning hours to watch the sun rise, and the sky filter into purplish pink tones. Visible on the lake are often several species of flamingoes feeding on the small brine shrimp that live in the water. The shores and distance are all a crystalline white, from the salt that gives the lake its name.

2. The Altiplanic Lakes of Miscanti and Miñique

These two protected lakes at 13,500 feet above sea level draw tours for the surprise of finding fresh water in the middle of a desert, and for the striking dark blue color of the lakes, which contrasts with the white mineral deposits around the lake’s shores. Humans are not the only visitors, and it is common to see several different bird species, including the emu-like rhea, and some friendly foxes who are curious about humans bring  (it is prohibited to approach or feed them). Guanaco herds may also sometimes be seen here.

3. Tebenquiche Lagoon,  Ojos de Salar and Laguna Cejar

These three lakes/lagoons are often grouped together in a single tour. Tebenquiche is a shallow lake over a salt lakebed, the perfect place to take shots of the landscape together with the lake’s mirrored reflection, which may include the nearby Lincancabur volcano. The Ojos del Salar are two small, round freshwater lakes which, when the wind is still, also give a perfect reflection of the surrounding landscape. Salar refers to the salt flat (lake) setting, and the ojos (literally: eyes) refer to the lakes. Laguna Cejar is sometimes referred to as the “floating lake,” due to its high concentration of salt, which makes swimmers extremely buoyant. Visitors often jump into this lake after feeling only the top couple of inches of water, which are warm, and find themselves surprised by the significantly cooler water below. 

4. El Tatio Geysers

The Geysers del Tatio are many visitors’ main point of interest, and the 4 AM pickup for the long drive up to the geysers does not stop them from getting there. The geysers are up at 14,000 feet, and temperatures of 15 degrees Farenheit are not unheard of in the early morning hours. But with the arrival of the dawn, the temperatures quickly rise, and various crevasses and puddles start to fizz, gurgle and send up jets of steam. Some of the geysers (sectioned off to prevent accidents) shoot water many meters into the air.

5. Puritama Hot Springs

At over 11,000 feet above sea level, these relaxing hot springs are a 45-minute ride from San Pedro de Atacama. The water percolates up through the soil of the desert and brings with it high mineral content, including calcium, potassium and magnesium which leave skin soft and are alleged to have curative properties for arthritis and other ailments. There is a series of eight pools connected by a wooden walkway, and is a popular afternoon destination.

You can arrange for each of these tours individually, or take a 4-day tour of San Pedro de Atacama dessert attractions and combine them all.

-Eileen Smith

Atacama: Hot Springs, Geysers, and Lakes in the World’s Driest Desert from Chile Things to Do


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